50-foot waves forecast to slam Hawaii’s northern beaches amid parade of Pacific storms

HONOLULU — Dangerous surf conditions with waves reaching dozens of feet high are forecast across Hawaii’s northern beaches just as winter-weary travelers may be searching out sun and warm beach weather for the Christmas week break.

A parade of storm-force to even hurricane-force windstorms is rolling across the Pacific Ocean over the next several days. And while their storm tracks are safely around 1,300 miles north of Hawaii and sparing the islands any direct storm impacts, their deep low pressure centers and ferocious winds are generating massive waves that fan out across the ocean basin.

The National Weather Service said satellite data is estimating seas as high as 65 feet near the storm centers, with a nearby buoy measuring 60-foot waves.

Forecast models indicate this fetch of waves is spreading south and will reach the north-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Maui over the weekend. Seas are expected to swell to 30-40 feet on Saturday, growing to 40-50 feet on Sunday.  A High Surf Warning is in effect until Monday morning.

Even the west-facing shores of those islands will likely see surf reach 25-35 feet.  Seas along the Big Island are expected around 8-12 feet.

“The prolonged duration of this active period will lead to coastal impacts, including significant beach erosion along exposed shorelines and potential overwash onto vulnerable coastal roadways and properties, especially during Sunday’s peak,” the National Weather Service warned.

The NWS also said to expect ocean water to surge and sweep across beaches, coastal benches, and lava flows, creating the potential for impacts to coastal properties and infrastructure, including roadways. Powerful longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches, making for dangerous swimming conditions.

The surf is expected to decrease on Monday and return to just “advisory” levels on Christmas Eve. But the storm pattern will remain quite active in the Pacific through the week.